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Miranda Hart goes sea kayaking in Turkey

'I am an adventurous, exotic person with adventurous exotic needs'

Mirana Hart sea kayaking in Turkey
Miranda Hart on sea kayaking in Turkey: 'The minute I launched on to that ­mirror-like sea and heard the ripples of the water as I ploughed steadily on, I felt exhilarated.' Photograph: Charla Jones for the Guardian

I am typing this on a villa balcony, watching a glorious view of the sun setting on the Mediterranean coast of Turkey, having been on an overnight sea kayaking adventure. I feel very lucky to be able to write that sentence. I also feel a little surprised. First, Turkey has never really cropped up on my agenda, holiday-wise. Second, I went on a sea kayaking adventure. And, yes, you heard correctly for those who are equally (and slightly rudely) surprised. So, let me explain.

Last September, I wanted to find some dying summer sun in the hope that embracing the long, dark British days ahead would be more bearable. I had never been to Turkey, it was only a four-hour flight and would be guaranteed good weather. I was sold. And then I surprised myself by booking not only a villa for full sun-worshipping and resting, but also a two-day sea kayaking trip.

In the lead-up to my holiday, if the conversation couldn't naturally get on to holidays, I would find myself saying, "Ask me where I am going on holiday, please."

"Oh, where are you going on holiday, Miranda?"

"Gosh, what a spontaneous question. I am going to the Turkish coast, if you please, where I will partake of a two-day sea kayaking adventure."

The response would either be: "Oh, it is absolutely beautiful, totally underrated" (a little frustrating, because they had been to Turkey first, but also pleasing, because my holiday choice had been affirmed) or, "Oooh, that's exotic – I have never been there" – just the response I craved, so I could retort, "Well, I am exotic, I need an exotic location and I think you'll find I am quite an adventurous person with adventurous exotic needs."

Now, I can confide in you – although you may well have noticed – that I am definitely not exotic and, although I am naturally adventurous and a traveller at heart, the fearful practical side will often take over. (Well, there are planes that might crash, injuries and illnesses that might be sustained, difficult languages and people one might need to negotiate.) But I am bored with the fears. So I was Turkey-bound and sticking to a recent new philosophy in my life, which is simply, "Get out of your comfort zone every day." It doesn't have to be big, expensive things; it could be just walking a different route to the tube or attempting a new recipe. In my case, this was on a slightly larger scale, but who knew where it might lead – the 2012 canoe team, perhaps?

As we landed, the sun was beginning to set and by the time we'd made the two-hour transfer to the villa it was dark, which meant the next morning was filled with childish excitement as we pulled back the curtains to reveal the view. We found ourselves looking over a rugged, mountainous terrain, the kind that lets you know you are away from home, with the green of the trees interspersed with dry, sandy, bald spots. Just by looking at them, you can tell how hot it gets and know you are in a more remote, untouched part of the world.

Our villa looked straight out to sea (I suppose a 150m walk away – oh yes, we had a private beach area), so clear that even from the terrace you could make out rocks under the water. We couldn't wait to dive in. Like true Brits, we were braced for the breathlessness of cold water that the sea usually brings, but here it was deliciously warm.

On the first day, my "something new" was a traditional hammam, or Turkish bath. Lying on a hot marble slab while someone washes you is never going to take off in Britain due to the sheer embarrassment potential, but in Turkey I succumbed fully and,encased in bubbles, turned tomy friend and said, "Oooh, heaven – like a blanket of love." Could I have been any more camp?

A five-minute walk from the villa was a hotel where we were able to book for dinner and just tip up for breakfast or lunch if we were feeling lazy – if you prefer hotels to villas, I recommend going down this route. The managers informed us that there was a fish night, barbecue night and music night that week – would we care to join them? The unadventurous Miranda balked at the thought, imagining having to "make friends" at a long trestle table, clap awkwardly and belly dance. But what "something new" was I going to try today? So I booked a table for fish night.

My philosophy blessed me. It was individual tables on the beach front, there was no belly dancing and you chose which fresh, local fish you would like barbecued. That plus the warm evening air, the lapping of the sea and, to make it all the more nauseating as you read this on a cold January morning, I saw the best shooting star I have ever seen.

All right, I thought the next morning, I've conquered a stranger washing me and a "fish night", but tomorrow it's sea kayaking – help! But it turned out to be the holiday highlight, and as I write I wish I was back on the high seas.

Miranda Hart sea kayaking in Turkey 'I couldn’t think about any of the worries that might face me back home; I simply had to focus on paddling, steering, maintaining balance, the new sounds and sights.' Photograph: Charla Jones for the Guardian

We were collected from the villa and driven to pick up the kayaks at a village an hour away, from where we were to paddle for three hours to a cove for lunch. Miss Negative thought of the sunstroke, the sore upper arms, the capsizing, the strain on the weak lower back, the fitting in the kayak (which did prove a little embarrassing while they searched for one to suit a very tall person). But the minute I launched on to that mirror-like sea and heard the ripples of the water as I ploughed steadily on, I felt exhilarated. It was a bit of a tough kayak to the first cove, as we were against the wind and it got choppy as we turned out of the harbour, but it was so worth it. If nothing else, for the overnight stay at an island accessible only by small boats and yachts. We climbed to the top of a 4th-century BC castle ruin to watch the sun set over the mountains, with the sea on one side and green valleys on the other. The pansiyon we stayed in was basic but delightful – its colourful throws, low tables, hammocks and candles took me back to my backpacking days. I felt the freedom and joy of being 20 again, and celebrated with two favourite passions of my youth – a beer and a cigarette.

The next morning, back in the kayak, I realised that, however tired one feels, one of the best ways to de-stress is to be distracted in action and purpose. I couldn't think about any of the worries that might face me back home; I simply had to focus on paddling, steering, maintaining balance, the new sounds and sights. And when I returned to the villa, I thought I had been away for weeks, not just a couple of days. Always the first sign of a good break.

I never usually say I will come back to a place, mainly because I feel I would rather explore new areas on this wonderful planet of ours, but Turkey, you have got me. I will be coming back. I will try something new with you next time – perhaps mountain biking – and I know you will reward me.

People seeking budget holidays urged to snap up Turkey villas

 

Brits who are hoping to jet off on a relaxing getaway in 2012 have been told that a stay in Turkish villa’s represents "excellent value for money".

This is the view given by Tolga Tuyluoglu, the UK & Ireland director of the Turkish Culture and Tourism Office, who pointed out that those on a budget will favour the country's exchange rate for sterling.

Families will have plenty to splash their cash on once in Turkey too, Mr Tuyluoglu acknowledged, as the nation boasts glorious beach resorts, a variety of historic sites and a rich culture.

The expert added: "The Turkish people are very friendly and welcoming to foreign guests and that can really make the difference between an average holiday and a really great one."

People heading to villas in Turkey may also want to think about moving there for the long-haul, as Tim Morgan, partner at Emerging Real Estate, recently noted that the country is a "real hotspot in Europe" for residential property abroad.

Turtles and tombs draw tourists to the Turkish town of Dalyan.

Dalyan, Turkey - At first glance Dalyan might not seem to have a lot going for it. The town in south-western Turkey is not directly on the coast. Being close to the Mediterranean but without a seaside to boast of usually means no tourists either.

Fortunately, Dalyan has plenty to offer besides. There is the river Dolmus, some impressive rock-hewn ancient remains, and various excavation sites nearby.

More importantly, it is a nesting site for loggerhead sea turtles (Caretta caretta) who lay their eggs on the beaches. This has proved to be a blessing in disguise for Dalyan since the reptile is considered to be an endangered species. Measures to protect its habitat include a ban on the building of intrusive hotel complexes although this has not deterred tourists entirely.

Dalyan manages to combine nature preservation and tourism. Plans to throw open the beaches to holiday guests the whole year around sparked international indignation and were eventually halted.

The female turtles come ashore and lay their eggs in the sand, which is cordoned off for the period. After incubating for between 50 and 80 days, the hatchlings crack the shells and dig through the sand to the surface.

The females later return to the same places in order to lay their next clutch of eggs, but they are deterred by human encroachment in the form of building activity or blaring music. Both hamper their ability to reproduce.

High above the river's sheer cliffs are the weather-beaten Lycian tombs, cut from rock between the 6th and 4th century BC. The ruins resemble Greek temples and attract much interest.

Many former fishermen in Dalyan have swapped their traditional vessels for pleasure boats with comfortably-upholstered seats, barbecue grills and fridge boxes. They ferry the tourists upstream to Lake Koycegiz with a stopover at the Sultaniye hot springs. Others head straight for the Caretta beach, the actual name of which is Iztuzu.

For those who prefer public transport, boats ply the Dolmus regularly. A trip lasts around 45 minutes. The river winds its way languidly past various islets until it reaches the sea. With a little luck travellers can spot kingfishers and eagles. Marsh frogs and dice snakes abound.

Suddenly, amid all the rushes, straw-topped sun-shades come into view. They stand in serried rows next to the countless sunbeds, with the ocean beyond. It is busy here in the summer but in the pre-season period only a few bold bathers take a dip in the water.

The beach is off limits after dark and tourists seldom catch sight of Loggerhead Turtles. Their freshwater counterparts however are easily lured into captivity, a job taken over by locals.

The river is not only a waterway to the beach. It must be crossed by all who come from Dalyan with the intention of touring the ruins of the ancient city of Kaunos. There is no bridge but compact rowing boats are used for the crossing.

The remains of Kaunos, which was once a port, are a 30-minute walk from the river bank. What is left is certainly worth seeing but the site cannot compete in stature with other antique excavation sites along the Lycian coast.

Thomas Cook: Savvy couples snap up Turkish delights ahead of the school holidays.

According to travel retail giant, Thomas Cook, Turkey will be one of the most popular destinations for UK holidaymakers this summer, and it’s easy to see why. Beautiful beaches, spectacular, lush scenery, historic ruins and vibrant nightlife scattered over a huge variety of resorts mean there’s a Turkish holiday for every couple.

Dalyan is just a 30 minute transfer from Dalaman airport but surrounded by pine-clad hills, bull rushes and ancient rock tombs it’s easy to understand why it’s been dubbed ‘one of the last corners of paradise’. Dalyan’s fine sand Iztuzu Beach is even home to endangered loggerhead turtles.